If you still cannot hear sound, log out of your account and then log back in. Make sure that sound output is selected and that you can now see a speaker icon next to HDMI in the list of devices. If you CANNOT see a speaker icon next to HDMI in the list on the left, do the following:īottom left of the window select the wheel icon with the down-pointing triangle. This last action below is NOT described in the iWires notes but was required in my case, it may also be required in yours.
#No audio macbook pro youtube tv#
In the middle of the window, on the Output tab, where it says "Source:" select your TV from the drop-down list. On the left-hand side of the window you should now see HDMI. Using either Finder or Launchpad go to Applications > Utilities > Audio MIDI Setup. Select your TV from the drop-down list next to HDMI, below where it says "Select a device for sound output". Middle of the window select your TV where it says "Play sound effects through:". Be sure you are on the Sound Effects tab. There are 3 tabs in the window Sound Effects, Output and Input. leave all other settings at their default values. Select the desired resolution for your TV (probably 1080i). You should now only see 2 tabs, Display and Color. Bottom left of the window tick "Mirror Displays". Bottom left of the window tick "Show displays in menu bar" and then bottom right click "Detect Displays". There are 3 tabs in the window Displays, Arrangement and Color. The booklet instructions basically say do the following, In this instance Apple are failing to live up to their catch-phrase as final setup is NOT intuitive "it just DOESN'T work". Most people don't read this as it's normally the case that when you plug a cable in to anything it just works (VCR, TiVo, Xbox, video camera etc). If you purchased an iWires cable direct from Apple the instructions are in the printed booklet that comes in the packaging. :) They also could be exactly the same, I don't know.Re: No sound over Mini DisplayPort to HDMI AdapterĭisplayPort to HDMI Sound is actually set up by using the MIDI setup utility found in :Īpplications > Utilities > Audio MIDI Setup. The macbook pros may be slightly different, but you can figure it out with a connectivity meter and some fiddling maybe. NOTE: This is one a late 2008, a1278 MacBook unibody. Below is an imgur link to a couple photos I took of the area and connections to jump. You do need a decent sodlering iron to do this and you must make sure you have a very small gauge wire (insulated). Computer Engineering student, I didn't just do this all willy-nilly out of the blue, haha. This fix is fine for me, especially since I had no other option b/c I'm out of warranty and I'm not spending $400 on a new logic board haha.īTW, I'm a Ph.D. This is b/c the switch is basically bypassed, the macbook will never know whether there is a headphone plugged in to the jack or not. After doing so, the headphone jack will not work as an audio output for either analog or optical, but the internal speakers will work fine. While doing so, I found that you can jump two connections (one is sleeve ground and the other I believe is a connection from the switch inside the jack. I reverse-engineered the connections I could access from the bottom of the PCB under the audio jack. So, I took it apart to get a look at the logic bord. Toothpick trick did not work for me, or anything similar. As a bonus, it fits into the little plastic clip on the MagSafe cable so it is always handy. But I settled on a piece of nail, snipped down to an inch and filed slightly rounded. The shank end of a 1/8" drill bit works well, and burying the business end in a bottle cork prevents it from cutting you (it is sharp). There is no problem using metal, even powered on, because headphone circuitry supplies no power and is protected against short circuits and static electricity. What works for me 100% of the time is inserting a 1/8" metal rod all the way and then dragging it out while applying moderate pressure in the 9 o'clock direction (towards the MagSafe connector). Jostling it with things like air, suction, Q-Tips, toothpicks, ballpoint pen inserts works for some, but not for me. Tugging on it with a bent-tipped safety pin while watching through a magnifying glass works, but only until the next time I unplug the headphones, and so is too impractical.
The one plaguing my Late 2006 MacBook is the tip contact. Staring into the glowing red Cylon eye, they are: 2 "sleeve" contacts (nearest you), one at 9 o'clock and one at 3 o'clock (positions on an imaginary 12-hour analog clock dial) 1 "ring" contact (farther in) at 12 o'clock and 1 "tip" contact (all the way in) also at 3 o'clock.
The Apple 3.5mm headphone jack may have multiple different failure modes, since it contains 4 equally flimsy electrical contacts.